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The boat trip to the Bosque Arrayanes from Villa Angostura offers no shortage of photo-worthy views.
The seductive village of Villa Angostura is nestled between mountain and lake in the Tahoe style an hour north of Bariloche (well worth your time) but a world of its own.
Villa Angostura is on the famous Seven Lakes Route, which is actually closer to seventeen. And this arm of Mammoth Lake No. 1, Nahuel Huapi, is one of the most beautiful rendezvous between land and water on the continent.
The summit of Cerro Bajo towers three kilometers away and offers a compact but legitimate ski mountain with 16 lifts and an excellent reputation. The gigantic expanse of the crystal blue water on three sides of the hamlet feels infinite – and the villa is extraordinary for kayakers, bikers, hikers, skiers and the like.
Overlooking the isthmus of “Isla” Victoria in the villa.
Arrayanes National Park
One of the places that draw people in is the secluded Parque Nacional Arrayanes, which is at the other end of the Victoria Peninsula, a long, twelve-mile stretch of green forest.
This isthmus is so narrow that Isla Victoria (technically the Victoria Peninsula) offers a lot more natural beauty than the actual islands of Phuket and Skye, to name a famous couple. It is absolutely undeveloped aside from the 12 kilometer trail that is open for hiking or biking.
The promenade in Parque Arrayanes.
It is a lovely walk through the forest to the massive orange trees of Arrayanes, which are by far the largest and oldest of all. Most people visit the park by boat from the city’s docks or across the great lake from Bariloche. The 45 minute slow drive from the villa is breathtaking and offers postcard views in all directions. Whether you want to get there or back, a sporty hike there or back – the choice is yours. We took the Futaleufu catamaran which departs from the mansa (quiet) side of the isthmus.
The fare was ARS 2,600, a bargain of about $ 40 for two, plus another $ 7 for actual park entry. That is the price for foreigners; Argentinians get less than half of it.
Regardless, it’s worth double and we were fortunate to have Carlos as a guide and source of important information. He led us over the sturdy wooden walkway through the Arrayanes grove, in which there are many gnarled trees, some of which are over 450 years old. There is probably more of the distinctive orange tribes here than the rest of the planet combined, and since they have been spared any frivolous development or eradication, there are many who have collapsed through centuries of life.
It’s a guided walk that can take much longer than the planned half hour, with a final stop at the centuries-old tea house near the dock. There is no campsite on the peninsula so it is made for a first class day hike, but the boat trip alone is something I highly recommend. Even from the port, some breathtaking viewpoints can be reached in half an hour, which are also worth every step and every minute. Two tours a day; Take your time and your camera.
Plush Puerto Manzano.
Manzano Bay
We didn’t make it four kilometers to the ski area, but took the hourly bus to the stunningly beautiful Bahia Manzano.
This must be heaven for anyone lucky enough to own a watercraft. Million dollar pads line the wooded banks and harbor here, and if that’s not good enough, it isn’t. A huge hotel on the bay takes up most of the center, but hikers can enjoy plenty of eye candy on the fringes. At least worth a stop and maybe a cruise around the shore from a sailboat with food and drinks. Stand-up paddleboards, kayaks and various other boats can be rented, and I can imagine a day of superlatives here – or many – while gliding on the blue ribbon water, no question about it.
What else?
The villa has a handful of neighborhoods, all accessible by public bus, and the main departure point is the same parking lot where the long-distance buses arrive.
Rental bicycles are plentiful and cheap, so a little human energy here can eliminate any “need” for a motorized vehicle. The main street is full of shops and cafes, and like many others, the city fills up in January when the summer holidays begin. Still, any other time of year the villa is worth a few days, and a multitude of ecosystems are just minutes away from each other. It’s a breathtaking place that I will return to again and again to continue studying and relaxing.
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